Levendis Estate, Ithaca, Greece, early June 2014.
It was the trip we
always dreamt of taking but had never quite managed. Crystal clear turquoise water, azure
blue skies, white pebble beaches tucked away in secluded coves accessible only
by boat; the heady scent of jasmine, rosemary and pine mixed with the tang of
sea salt; waking in the early morning sun to the sound of waves crashing
against the cliffs far below and the soft, distant clang of the village church
bell. Dreamy, romantic and impossibly
beautiful…. where was this hideaway? Not some far-flung destination accessible
only with tedious, jet-lag inducing flights . . . but the Greek island of
Ithaca.
Rich in history,
legend and ancient mythology – the fabled Greek warrior Odysseus took ten years
to complete the epic journey back to Ithaca after the end of the Trojan war – we
were on our own personal odyssey though admittedly not nearly as noble as that
of Odysseus. Ours was to simply relax, read, swim, nap and take that trip we
had always dreamt of. And our
beautiful home for the week, Levendis Estate, perched high above Afales Bay on
the Northern tip of Ithaca, was the perfect location for our quest. With spectacular unbroken views of the
surrounding countryside, craggy cliffs plunging into the brilliant blue sea
below and the distant mountains of Lefkada, our first glimpse of Levendis took
our breath away. Even on the rainy
afternoon of our arrival (unusual for early June on Ithaca) the pervading sense
of peace, tranquility and utter beauty was captivating.
Greek-Australian
owners, Marilyn (Mal) and Spero Raftopulos, have created a wonderfully
unpretentious organic retreat on Spero’s ancestral property where the only
decisions you need make are which beach you will swim at that day (shady
Kourvoulia or secluded Perivoli), which sleepy seaside village will you visit
for lunch (Frikes or Kioni), which creamy Dodoni ice-cream will you choose
after a long morning hike (pistachio or hazelnut…..or both!), which tree will you
doze under in the warm afternoon sun (olive or eucalyptus) and which wine will
you sip to watch the setting sun (white or rosé). Set on 7
terraced acres brimming with centuries-old olive groves (we snuck a cutting
from one of Mal and Spero’s olive trees to plant on our balcony in London*),
fields of wildflowers, towering cypress and eucalyptus trees – the latter reminding
me of our distant home in Australia - and landscaped gardens overflowing with
white roses, vibrant flowers, and thick hedges of fragrant rosemary and
lavender, Levendis Estate is a visual and olfactory sensation. Camouflaged by the magnificent gardens are
four blue-shuttered, two-bedroom guest cottages dotted around the estate. Simply
designed, with rustic, comfortable interiors, the cottages are in keeping with
the laid-back, low-key feel of Ithaca. You could come back from a day at the
beach with sandy** feet – and we did – and not worry about being scolded by the housekeeper.
Outside, gorgeous pink bougainvillea
tumble from the terrace roof while the vines provide welcome shade for long alfresco
lunches and dinners.
Spending time with
warm, easy-going Mal and Spero and their adult children Kate and Naki (each
morning Mal runs a coffee shop at the top of the estate where guests can chat
and discuss plans for the day, grab an espresso and light breakfast, collect
freshly-baked village bread as well as organic seasonal produce from the garden)
it is obvious that guest happiness – and a relaxing, hassle-free holiday – is
vitally important to them. And given the number of guests that return to
Levendis year after year, it is clear that they have achieved this. From the
thoughtful food provisions in our cottage on arrival (homemade jams, poached
fruit, muesli and thick yoghurt, wine, a loaf of village bread, eggs, decadent
chocolate truffles) and the homeopathic toiletries in the bathroom (the aloe
healing hydration tonic was brilliant for soothing overly sunkissed skin) to airport
transfers, and arranging car hire, Mal and Spero have thought of everything.
We spent our
days pootling around Ithaca by car (and boat!) visiting drowsy mountain-top
villages, some with only a few inhabitants or abandoned completely***, swimming
in turquoise water so clear we could see tiny striped fish darting around our
legs, hiking through olive groves and cypress forests with only the melodic hum
of cicadas and the clang of goat bells for company, splashing about in Levendis’
breathtaking infinity pool until our fingers and toes were wrinkly, feeding
Onkey - Mal and Spero’s rescue donkey - our leftover fruit and vegetable
scraps, reading (and napping) under the shade of the beautiful old olive tree
at the front of our cottage as pretty yellow butterflies danced around our bare
legs, eating simple, zingy salads, grilled calamari, briny olives and
traditional Greek dips bursting with flavor (and garlic!) all washed down with
a carafe of house rosé. It was one of
the most incredible, magical and restorative weeks of my life and I feel so
grateful to Mal and Spero for introducing us to their little piece of paradise,
Levendis Estate.
And what did we bring back in our suitcase?
No t-shirts proclaiming we had been to Ithaca and survived. Instead two bottles
of creamy, herbaceous olive oil from Levendis, a clutch of beautiful smooth
stones we had collected over the week, each stone from a different beach, our
precious olive cutting, sunkissed skin (even I, who slathers on copious amounts
of suncream and is never without a hat), and most importantly the happiest
memories of a place I know we will return to again and again. Our Odyssey was complete.
To Do:
Ithaca is a turn up, kick-your-shoes-off and
head to the nearest beach or taverna kind of place. It isn’t a party island (though don’t leave behind the
headache tablets completely - those carafes of wine over long lunches can kick
quite a punch) but that is precisely the point of holidaying on Ithaca. If you
love pristine beaches, peaceful traditional villages, friendly people, walking paths
that hug the dramatic coastline and spectacular scenery, you will adore Ithaca.
At Levendis Estate, Mal has prepared two
comprehensive compendiums (the best I have come across!), which detail the best
beaches (depending if you are holidaying with littlies or not) and things to do
on Ithaca during your stay (drives, walks, day excursions, boat hire, scuba
diving, pilates, yoga, restaurant and taverna recommendations).
Highlights?
Hiring a boat from George at Kioni Boat Hire
for the day. Mal packed us an esky picnic lunch and after some instruction from
George (with detailed questioning from me on the likelihood of sharks – he
laughed and said “No sharks!”) we set
off. Wind in our hair and slicing through the intense blue water, we hugged the
coastline and explored deserted coves and beaches. We finally put down anchor at a little beach - “our beach” -
and sat with our legs in the water, sipping wine, snacking on homemade dips and
bread, and intermittently slipping into the water to cool off. A perfect day.
The hike from Levendis Estate to Frikes via
the coastal road. Exhausting (the
first part is mostly uphill) but rewarding with spectacular views. Take lots of
water and your swimsuit for a dip at Marmakas Beach before heading on to Frikes
for lunch and ice-cream.
Take the drive up to Kathara Monastery for
sensational views back towards Vathy.
Tip: Buy wet
shoes before you go (ours were from Two Bare Feet) and if you wear glasses, a
pair of prescription goggles are a must (we chose Aqua Sphere Eagle goggles) to
see starfish, sea urchins, bristle worms, and ditzy little fish hiding in the
sea grass.
Eat + Drink:
Staying at Levendis
you have the option of self-catering, ordering home-cooked “ready” meals,
salads and dips which Mal or Spero will deliver in the early evening (brilliant
for the first night of your stay and anyone travelling with little children),
or eating out in the local villages (Stavros, Frikes, Platreithias and Kioni).
Polyphemus,
Stavros. Tucked away in a pretty garden in Stavros, we enjoyed fried Greek
cheese, creamy feta and zucchini fritters, and grilled calamari.
Penelope Restaurant,
Frikes. Lovely seaside setting with pretty turquoise and white chairs. Try the aubergine
salad (mop up the garlicky oil with chunks of excellent bread), moussaka, and
souvlaki.
Dodoni Coffee
Shop, Frikes. Peter makes a great macchiato or cappuccino and is the man to see
for bowls of creamy, cold Greek ice-cream. We looked forward to our daily chat
with Peter….and our scoop of hazelnut parfait ice-cream. An excellent vantage
point for yacht peeping as well.
Rementzo, Frikes
Yefuri
Restaurant and Bar, Platreithias. We only had a drink here (great for
village-watch!) but will return for a meal on our next visit to Ithaca.
*Definitely do
not try this if you are visiting from Australia!
**There are a
couple of sandy beaches on Ithaca one of which is directly below Levendis
Estate.
*** The 1953
earthquake devastated Ithaca with the result that many homes and historical buildings
were destroyed. Many Ithacans immigrated to Australia, South Africa, Canada and
America to escape the devastation. Hence the very strong Australian-Greek
connection on Ithaca and you are just as likely to hear a G’day as Yassas in
the small villages.
We were hosted by Levendis Estate on our trip to Ithaca.
A note on the photographs:
Onkey the donkey loves littlies but can be a little nervous around adults due to his past mistreatment (before he was rescued by Mal and Spero).... but the way to his heart (and trust) is through food scraps. I spent a lot of time with Onkey chatting to him and feeding him vegetable and fruit scraps.
The bearded chap has a sister in Sydney and in his younger days apparently had quite the adventures in Kings Cross ;)
A note on the photographs:
Onkey the donkey loves littlies but can be a little nervous around adults due to his past mistreatment (before he was rescued by Mal and Spero).... but the way to his heart (and trust) is through food scraps. I spent a lot of time with Onkey chatting to him and feeding him vegetable and fruit scraps.
The bearded chap has a sister in Sydney and in his younger days apparently had quite the adventures in Kings Cross ;)
