Camp Comfort, Texas Hill Country, Texas, early February 2015.
The evocative scent of wood
smoke punctuates the crisp afternoon air.
Trees, stripped bare of their summer leaves, are alive with flashes of vermilion:
tiny robins flit from branch to branch intent on catching supper before dusk
falls. A sunshine-yellow vintage Ford van sporting “Follow Me to Camp
Comfort” on its rear signals our arrival at our destination: Camp Comfort
in the small town of Comfort, Texas Hill Country.
Dismounting, literally, from
our 4WD (as the saying goes “Everything’s
Bigger In Texas”… even the rental cars!), I take in the scene: squat,
bright-orange chairs are clustered around two fire pits in a central courtyard –
the source of the wonderful wood smoke, a cute rustic shack painted with the
Texas state flag sits under the canopy of a huge oak tree and a row of crayola-orange
doors mark the entrance to Camp Comfort’s four suites*. Just as I am making my way
to our room**, a furry flash of mottled grey, black and brown scuttles past me.
The waggly-tail welcoming committee has arrived! Mooch, a beautiful Australian
Shepherd dog, is followed closely by Camp Comfort’s affable co-owner, Phil
Jenkins, who greets me warmly in his soft Southern drawl “How y’all doing, I see you’ve
met Mooch!”.
Once Comfort’s bowling
alley, Phil and his talented wife Lisa have transformed the historic site into
gorgeous boutique lodgings. Wandering around Camp Comfort, I send a friend in
Australia a photo. She immediately messages me back “It looks like a movie set!”. And it does but not in a clichéd way. Perched
on a rise above Cypress Creek, Phil, a retired builder (or so he says!***), has
cleverly renovated the property, retaining many of the original features and
honouring the spirit of the bowling alley without slipping into the twee. On
the outside, rustic rules while the interiors are a testament to Lisa’s design
aesthetic, a blend of modern + cosy with a sprinkling of retro quirkiness. It
feels like a grown-up version of summer camp: the vibe is laidback, fun and low key… much like Lisa and
Phil.
Inside the suites, playful
touches (coasters stamped with “We’re
glad you’re here”, a soap dish with “I
pledge to lead by example, to be true and brave” inscribed on the base,
Tivoli radios and whimsical throws) meld with the quietly luxurious: Princess
and The Pea-esque beds (the type you have to stand almost on tippy-toes to
climb aboard!) are fitted with crisp white linen; bathrooms are stocked with
beautiful Malin + Goetz products (the peppermint shampoo is so dreamy and a
wonderful jetlag pick-me-up) and white cotton towels are stacked for après
soaking in the sublime air-jet bath. A well-stocked snack
basket (parmesan and rosemary popcorn, Godiva milk-chocolate biscuits, Mexican
coke, Native Texan Fire Roasted salsa as well as fixings to make S’mores around
the fire pit) makes it tempting to never leave the property.
A short stroll from the
suites is Camp Comfort’s 24-hour Social Hall and Camp Store, the original
social hall for the bowling alley when it was built in 1860. Guests gravitate
to the spacious whitewashed hall to read, play board games, eat breakfast in
the mornings and grab coffee and fresh-baked cookies in the afternoons. Road-tripping
with a group of friends? The light, airy space would be perfect for late-night
gatherings after the S’mores have all been eaten, the fireflies have moved on and
the campfire has finally flickered out.
Prior to arriving at Camp Comfort and learning the origin of Comfort’s name (the town was settled in 1854
by German immigrants who were Freethinkers and Abolitionists), I thought it was
a sweet and beautiful name evoking feelings of warmth and kindness. After
spending time with Lisa, Phil and Mooch and staying at Camp Comfort, I can’t
imagine a more perfect description for their venture. As we are leaving, Phil
says to us “It’s been so nice visiting
with you”. No, Phil, it has been so nice visiting with you.
Eat:
A light organic breakfast
(cereal, granola, fresh fruit, toast, juice, yoghurt and muffins) is served
each morning in the Social Hall at Camp Comfort, and in the early afternoon fresh-baked cookies
appear just in time to starve off the mid-afternoon energy slump.
“We are small, we are family, and we are a small business. Thank you for
supporting our dream and our community. You make a difference in our lives”.
In keeping with their beautiful ethos, Lisa and Phil are champions of their
local community, recommending places to eat in Comfort as well as restaurants
and cafes in the surrounding towns.
Alamo Springs Café:
Seriously awesome (giant) burger and fries! Bigger does not always mean better
but in this case it definitely does. Do not eat breakfast before you go (unless
you have an extraordinarily large appetite or have run 15km that morning). In
the Top Ten burgers I have eaten, and all served up with a smile. If you are in
Texas Hill Country, make sure you make a detour to Alamo Springs Café.
Comfort Pizza, Comfort: Comfort’s
local pizza joint serving well-executed wood fired pizza. Service is a little
odd – don’t go expecting warm Texan hospitality - but the pizza is tippy-top.
We got ours “to go” and settled in for movie night on the flat-screen television
in our suite.
High’s Café and Store,
Comfort: A lovely café in Comfort’s main street to grab a light lunch or
afternoon tea (salads, sandwiches, soups and cakes). They also sell a selection
of gifts and books.
Alamo Market & Lockers,
Comfort: We took advantage of the outdoor BBQ grills at Camp Comfort to bbq
some excellent steaks and homemade sausages from Alamo Market. Nothing better
than grilling steaks, drinking beer (wine for me!) and dining alfresco under
starry skies.
Further afield, Franklin BBQ
in Austin is so worth the three-hour
(or longer!) wait. I don’t generally “do” extremely long lines for food (probably
the reason I haven’t tried a cronut yet!) but would fly back to Austin and
stand in line in the freezing cold for another morsel of that moist
brisket. If you are not visiting
Austin, the second best brisket (out of the five BBQ joints we visited) was at Louie Mueller Barbecue in Taylor, Texas. Obviously BBQ is subjective (like lobster
rolls!) but these were the two places where we enjoyed the food and atmosphere the
most.
To do:
From
rummaging in the myriad of antique stores which line the main streets of Comfort
and Fredericksburg, to hiking Enchanted Rock, wine tasting on the Texas Wine
Trail or cooling off with a dip in a natural swimming hole (summer only!),
there is much to do in Texas Hill Country.
We
managed:
A spin
through the Willow City Loop: a pretty, 20-mile drive through countryside which
would be spectacular in spring when all the wildflowers are blooming.
Polly’s Chapel, Bandera. Under a canopy of grand old oak trees in what feels like the
middle of nowhere, this lovely chapel is worth seeking out if you are visiting
Bandera, “The Cowboy Capital of The World”.
We were hosted by Camp Comfort during our stay in Texas Hill Country.
*There is also a cosy (and much sort-after) free-standing
cabin overlooking Cypress Creek.
**Door codes are provided prior to arrival
alleviating the need for keys (one less thing to misplace!) and making check-in
seamless.
***Expansion plans are already afoot given the
popularity of Camp Comfort since it opened for business at the beginning of
2014.